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"Travels With Shelley:
An Old Truck Journey
to Arctic Alaska
"

by Scott Sensing

(The following are pre-publication excerpts from the book.)

 Before entering Canada:

           I bought a can of Whoop Ass in Montana.  It’s an energy drink that supposedly revitalizes attitude and restores faith in mankind. I’m always on the lookout for a good caffeine buzz, but unfortunately, Whoop Ass fell short.  Instead, the reliable drone of Shelley’s engine was the only buzz I could get.

This is from the heart of the journey-- Alaska's Dalton Highway, north of the Arctic Circle:

After the busted windshield, I drive in silence, without tantrum or tears.  Maybe the naysayers were right.

            “Your truck is gonna be messed up bad when you get off that road,” they said.  “Your paint job is gonna be trashed.  I wouldn’t take my truck on that trip.”

            I’ve spent 18 years trying to make Shelley better, smoother, prettier.  How dare I put her on this God-forsaken road in the middle of nowhere. 

            Now, every time I see a dust cloud in the distance, a lump forms in my throat.  Maybe another busted glass, or dented fender, or broken headlight.  And with 700 miles to go, we haven’t seen the worst of this gravel road.  Will Shelley be able to climb those 12-percent grades I read about?  Will the constant bouncing strain her mechanicals?  Once, I saw a junkyard transmission with its case broken in half.  Maybe the strain will crack Shelley’s transmission wide open, too.  Door panel and window channel screws are already backing out from the vibration.  Who knows what engine screws are shaking loose that could strand us in the wilderness.

            I knew this could happen.  Common sense tells you flying rocks can be hazardous to your vehicle, and the speed of those pipeline service semi-trucks is legendary.  But I was overcome with a sense of  “it won’t happen to me,” which has been a required mindset to risk Shelley on this trip of a lifetime.

            “So…” said David as he gestured toward the busted windshield.  “Does that make you mad?”

 

Here's when Shelley and I crossed into Canada for the first time:

           “Unlock the camper, would you please?” The Canadian border agent was pleasant, but her tone suggested she’d just as soon twist an arm behind my back and throw me against a wall like an inner city drug thug.  

            “Step right over there and wait sir.” She pointed me toward the curb at Shelley’s front bumper.  I paced for a few minutes twiddling my thumbs and trying to look innocent while the lady searched.  She appeared to be going through every single bag of spare hardware, every box of connectors, tapes, clips, tools, and screws, every suitcase of clothing, including my wash bag with dirty undies, every single thing I had packed to survive eight weeks on the road.  I remembered that bag of a hundred rifle cartridges David had packed in his old army duffle bag, and also that Walking Tall axe handle John Lee had given me as a souvenir from the Sheriff Buford Pusser museum in Adams, Tennessee.  John had had the sheriff’s daughter autograph the head basher, then he stained, shined, and presented it to Shelley and me as a good luck charm.  Maybe they had seen those 1970’s Walking Tall movies here in Canada.  Would such lethality raise a warning flag to this rummaging officer? 

            After five minutes, I got bored playing innocent and made myself comfortable sitting on the concrete curb beside a grease spot.   Five minutes became fifteen.  Fifteen became thirty. 

            “Sir?” She motioned for me with an accusatory finger. 

            I stepped around toward her.

            “What are these?” she asked, pointing to the syringes in my fix-it kit. 

            “Oh, that’s what I use to oil the generator.  They’re very handy.  The generator has tiny grease cups. It’s a very old truck.”  Those grease cups were the size of a pea, and were located far down on the generator, beside Shelley’s engine.  Oiling them had been a problem until I found that hypodermic syringes, minus the needle, were perfect for sucking up a few drops of motor oil from the oil bottle cap into which it had been poured, and then injecting the drops into the generator cups with surgical precision.  I didn’t tell her what Mikey, the generator technician back in Texas had said about his having rebuilt the unit with modern greaseless bearings and that the old grease cups were no longer necessary, even though they remained on the generator housing.  I could still show her those tiny grease cups, and even inject a few drops of oil to prove my story if she wanted. 

 

This recalls pre-Shelley days in 1981, when Dad and I split time in his 1968 Ford:
            Dad's car enjoyed playing tricks on me. One Friday night after returning my date to her rural home, the car's muffler found a tree root sticking through the road. The muffler and exhaust pipe separated, leaving all eight cylinders of the Ford laughing into the crisp December night.
            Windowpanes in houses rattled every time I pressed the gas pedal, or so it seemed. My ears pounded from the blast. The dislodged pipe must have been directly under the driver's seat. I cursed the Ford for maliciously snagging the root I had managed to avoid for months.
            Too bad the problem couldn't have been an easily changed flat tire. The car must have read my mind, because at that moment a faint, rhythmic hissing began. I took my foot off the gas to soften the exhaust racket, and recognized the unmistakable spewing of a tire.
            It was around 11:00 p.m. and the temperature had dropped to single digits. The night was tar black, the Ford carried no flashlight, and its trunk light was out. My fingers would have to grope in cold, unfeeling darkness for the spare tire and tools, around the bow and arrows that brother David had left in the trunk since deer season. He kept his arrowheads razor sharp to slice through animal tissue and cause as much blood loss as possible for a fast and humane kill. Obviously, the Ford knew the arrowheads could melt through my numb flesh as well.
            Despite the car's bloodlust, I groped in blind darkness for the tire, jack, and lugwrench and somehow managed to avoid the razor-tipped arrows, brushing them aside along with Grandma's crosscut saw and a pair of sandy hard creek-wading sneakers. The tire change was successful, although the machine twice tried to roll off a teetering bumper jack.
            Another night, I was flat broke with barely enough gas to get home. Dad's car had automatic transmission with P-R-N-D-L column shifter that I would shift to N when coasting down hills, then back to D for motoring up. Once, at 50-mph, instead of shifting from N to D, I shifted from N to R by mistake.
            The engine died. Red dash lights illuminated, power steering and brakes stiffened, and the car limped to a stop. I trembled in the silence, my heart thumping, my lungs heaving as if they would burst. Had I killed the beast?
            I coaxed a shaky hand to the shifter and tapped it lightly with my palm, as if it were scalding hot, then wrapped each finger around it, pulled it toward the wheel, and pushed it back into P. I turned off the ignition switch.
            This wasn't a window broken with a BB gun, or a vase broken during living room Frisbee. It was an expensive transmission, and I had destroyed it. Dad would have to miss days of work to fix it (assuming it was fixable). How would he punish me? Was I too old for the belt? Surely he wouldn't use his fists. Would he yank me from high school to get a job and pay for the damage?
            After a pause through which a million scenarios raced through my mind, I attempted to restart the engine, an action probably as pointless as flipping a light switch after the light had already blown. But there was nothing else I could do.
            I put my foot on the brake, squeezed my eyes shut, and turned the key. Of course the engine started, for I had only ruined the transmission. I caressed the shifter knob again, and prayed for a surge as I shifted into D. Could it be? I opened my eyes, took my foot off the brake, and it began to roll. Through a miracle the car lived, and I made it home with gas to spare.

 

On the Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory, Canada, near Kluane Lake:
          
We saw an RV stopped on the road ahead.  It was a sure sign of wildlife, so we slowed for a look.  A brown, furry lump in the bushes to the right drew our attention.  It was a bear, and the large shoulder hump and dished-in face indicated that it was a grizzly.  I rolled down the window for photos, the RV drove away, and David eased us to a stop right beside the beast.

            “It’s jammed,” he said. “It won’t go back in first gear.”

            Terrific.  We were stuck in high gear, unable to sprint if the bear decided to eat us.

            “I told you not to force it.  It’ll jam the shifter every time.”

His inexperience was frustrating until I remembered jamming it myself, once in Texas and again in New Mexico. Ordinarily, a jammed three-on-the-tree requires raising the hood and jiggling the linkage.  This time however, there was a grizzly to contend with.  And those two cuddly critters in the bushes were her cubs.

            I snapped photos, shot video, and wondered how to unjam the shifter with bears outside.  Then, out of the sky and into our relatively stable predicament, descended a swirling swarm of mosquitoes.  First they were nowhere, then they were everywhere.  They zizzed around my ears, nose, and in my mouth.  We hurriedly cranked the windows shut and swatted seven with the windshield fog rag while an innumerable mass buzzed outside our survival capsule. Mamma Griz sauntered behind us and the cubs followed.  Shelley was the only vehicle in site.  

            “They uh...they don’t look like they’ll be flying away anytime soon,” David said.

            “Wanna learn how to unjam the shifter?”

            He rubbed a hand through his buzz haircut.  “Not really.”

            In the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee, tourists feed black bears by hand, despite warning signs like those we’ve seen in Canada: A fed bear is a dead bear. You don’t hand feed a grizzly.  This adult mother had four inch claws that could slice through car doors like tin foil.  Up until then, I had poked fun at David for insisting we bring his rifle, and now that I had to go outside and unjam the shifter, it wasn’t so funny anymore.

            I twisted around for a view out the cab rear window, through the camper windows, and saw Mamma Griz on the other side of the road, about 40 feet behind us. Would I have time to bolt outside, raise the hood, jiggle the linkage, and make it back in before she caught my scent and lunged? There was one way to find out.

Grizzly among wildflowers beside Alaska Highway